Location : Millom / Ravenglass / Seascale / St Bees / Whitehaven / Harrington / Workington / Maryport

A diary of a walk along the part of the Cumbria Coastal Way between Millom to St Bees, by Peter & Jeanne Donaghy, and John & Gillian Laidler, 5-8 July 2006.

Some two months after walking from Millom to St Bees we set off again (13-14 October 2006) determined this time to reach Maryport. We have continued to number the days in sequence to give an indication of the overall length of time we are taking to complete the Way.

Introduction

This is the diary of a walk by Peter and Jeanne Donaghy and John and Gillian Laidler, two couples in their upper sixties, reasonably experienced walkers and joint authors of 3 walking guides (Lakeland Church Walks, Northumbria Church Walks and Metro Walks).

Having already covered some sections of the Cumbria Coastal Way which stretches for 150 miles from Arnside to Gretna, namely the coastal section of the Allerdale Ramble and the Burgh to Carlisle section of the Hadrian’s Wall Path, we wanted to explore the Way a little further south, and reckoned we could manage Millom to Whitehaven in 4 days. In the event, due to he distances involved, our current lack of training and fitness and the need to find convenient cut–off points we decided to lower our sights and content ourselves with reaching St Bees some 6 miles short of our original destination.

We were very fortunate with the weather and enjoyed glorious sunshine for the first 3 days, during which we experienced the coast and its hinterland at its very best. Rain began to fall during the final 4 miles or so of our walk but not to the extent that it ruined our day. Our overall impression was one of sheer delight in the splendour of the natural environment with its accompanying peace and stillness. This is truly a magnificent walk which we would fully recommend.

However, it has been rather neglected in parts and the route is not always clear. We used two maps: OS Outdoor Leisure No 6 The English Lakes: South Western area, and OS Explorer 303 Whitehaven & Workington and The Cumbria Coastal Way: A Walkers’ Guide by Ian and Krysia Brodie. The maps are not always easy to follow: the route generally hugs the coastline and minor deviations are hard to pick up and reference to some fords are totally out of date.

The guide book, however, was essential and we could not have done some sections without it (particularly around Waberthwaite and Muncaster. Naturally there have been changes since the book was first published twelve years ago: stiles and gates have disappeared, and new fences have been erected, but making allowances and using common sense, we benefited enormously from its use.

We only hope that it could be brought up to date and reprinted, as sadly it is very difficult to obtain (ours was a library copy). From time to time we found CCW waymarks but these are inadequate in some sections. There was at least one part where the route was virtually impassable (see Day 4 Nethertown), so we feel there is quite a lot of work to be done by the Footpaths Officers and the Tourist Authorities in order to ensure the survival of this Way.

While it is clearly possible and indeed commendable to use the train service that parallels most of this section, as we were based in Cockermouth in order to avoid overnight stays elsewhere, we opted to use cars, leaving one at each end of our daily walk.

Day 1 (Wednesday): Millom - Silecroft 8 miles

Coffee at the Bridge Café. Car in pay car park next to Somerfields. Set out in glorious sunshine about noon and walked to the end of Lancashire Road. Finding the starting point is often difficult but thanks to advice from the local TIC we went straight ahead onto the track and immediately right after old railway bridge. Followed the track which eventually broadened out and passed our first CCW sign and also an information board about the nature reserve on the site of the former iron works.

Continued ahead with the estuary opening up on our left and after passing the wide expanse of the former quay we reached the beginning of the sand dunes and a notice warning of an underground cable. However, we noticed the stile on the right and walked along the grassy field edge. This pleasant path eventually climbs between the hedgerows and passes a ruined windmill before descending to the Outer Barrier created in 1888-9 to protect the iron ore mine at Hodbarrow. We paused to read the information board and to admire the metal lighthouse built in 1905 and lovingly restored in 2002.

Then onto Haverigg along the sea defence wall and crossing over the bridge over the river to stop for some liquid refreshments in the pleasant beer garden of The Harbour pub after 2 hours of walking.

Back onto the coast, we found a convenient bench to enjoy our sandwiches not far from the Beach Café, public loos and childrens’ play park. Suitably reinvigorated we strolled along the top of well trodden path to arrive at the sculpture Escape to Light, by Josefina de Vasconcellos, in honour of those who lost their lives in sea rescues, appropriately located near the Inshore Rescue Station.

We descended to the foreshore and enjoyed a further 2 hours gentle walking along the wide clean beach. It was along this section that to their delight the sharp-eyed ladies spotted the rare fairy foxglove flower. With the tide out it was possible to walk as far as the car park beside the beach near Silecroft with only minor sections over stones. We got there shortly after 5pm just after the ice cream van moved off - but at least the public toilets were open. A great start to our walk!

Day 2 (Thursday): Silecroft- Stubbs Place Farm 8 miles.

We stopped for coffee at Gosforth, which was just as well as there were no refreshments en route today. In ideal conditions on a beautifully warm and sunny day and with the tide well out, we started with 2½ miles along the seashore on firm sand with the occasional shingle/stone section.

We managed to spot the finger post to the track up through the last of the line of clay cliffs. This led us to a stile and into a series of fields and tracks to pass over the top of Annaside Bank. We were then back on the beach for a very short section before walking parallel to the coast along a grassy track. Very comfortable walking here!

We stopped for our sandwiches before tackling what was to be the first slightly difficult section of the entire walk. After passing a small tarn at Hyton Marsh and crossing over the River Annas, via a pleasant bridge with attractive stone supports, the path took us below the cliffs. The path was very uneven and care was needed to pick our way along the eroded bankside before climbing a short way to a field as the river turned to the sea. The farm buildings at Selker appeared and we went through the gate to the left and descended towards the shore again along a farm track.

The guide book indicated that we should walk along the edge of the fields but unfortunately erosion has changed the topography, new fences had been erected and we were forced to walk over the shingle and stone strewn beach. There was considerable evidence of a damaged coastline, broken sea defences and lots of flotsam and jetsam. Occasionally we managed to find access to a grassy path but in the main we had to walk along seashore until we reached a metalled road and the car park at Stubbs Place Farm. The stark warning signs about the MOD establishment at Eskmeals gave us something to talk and think about in anticipation of the following day.

A great day’s walking. We like this Cumbria Coastal walk!

Day 3 (Friday) : Stubbs Place Farm - Drigg 12 miles

We enjoyed coffee again in Gosforth on route to the car park beyond Stubbs Farm. Again the weather was excellent. The red warning flags and signs were justified by the two loud explosions we heard as we followed the road past the MOD Eskmeals Proof and Experimental Establishment. After a little over a mile, we took the public footpath along a drive past an attractive property (Eskmeals House) and then negotiated our way over a number of fields with the aid of our Guide Book. However, stiles had disappeared and we had to rely on experience and map reading before we reached the road at Newbiggin. From here to Hall Waberthwaite Church we were on more familiar ground, as we found our way to the estuary and on to the church featured in our own 'Lakeland Church Walks' book.

As we left this rather desolate spot we were encouraged to see a notice for walkers about tide times in 2006. At least someone seems to be aware of this route! However, again the lack of signs and overgrown paths made this a particularly tricky area to cover. From Rougholme Farm and the attractive pack horse bridge we made our way back towards the River Esk. Happily we managed to reach the road (A595) without too many meanders and we were rewarded with fine views of Muncaster Castle.

The next ¼ mile was by the side of this busy road with lots of side-stepping onto the narrow grass verge - this is certainly not for the faint hearted! Surely some traffic calming measures are needed at the bridge! We were relieved to enter the quiet access track past Hirst Lodge. Soon we were into the delightful woods and onto the permissive path in the castle grounds where waymarks helped us follow the route. Here we divided into two parties to sample both the estuary and high tide alternative path – neither of which presented any problems.

There were good views of Hall Waberthwaite Church and the Eskmeals viaduct before we were back along the estuary shore and our first sandy walk of the day into the delightful village of Ravenglass. Getting short of time we resisted the opportunity to partake of refreshments and instead we continued with a mixture of road walking and enclosed grassy lanes. From here there was a long and wearying stretch on the road down to the coastal car park from where we were rewarded with splendid views of seals on a half-submerged sandbank.

A tiring section which took about 7 hours but a really pleasant day with contrasting landscapes.

Day 4 (Saturday): Drigg – St Bees 12 miles

Our final stage. Overcast but mild as we set out from the coastal car park, after coffee at the Craft Shop at Drigg station. Pleasant track across the dunes in a designated area of Special Scientific Interest. Saw beautiful butterflies. Then easy walking on clean sands to Seascale with St Bees Head nearly always lying encouragingly ahead.

Short stop in “time-stands-still” Seascale, then along the obvious path parallel to the railway as far as the Sellafield complex. Fascinating to see this at close hand and no problem in crossing the River Calder via the BNFL bridge. However, refurbishment work on the pipeline completely obstructs the route just beyond Sellafield Station and this is likely to continue until at least the end of 2006. Happily we were forewarned by Diane at Millom TIC and put in touch with Eileen at BNFL Communications Office. She was able to provide us with an alternative route, having very kindly inspected the possibilities on foot herself, and she is making arrangements to have this waymarked. Her advice took us via Cycleway 72 where we found a conveniently placed picnic bench to stop for lunch.

Here we delighted in the sight of a deer veering off the track and over a nearby field. Then along a disused railway embankment to rejoin the route via a bridge over the river. Stiles seem high around here and the ladies needed to take advantage of a dog flap at one stage! We were soon on the beach again, only this time the going became tough underfoot as we made our way across shingle and stone as rain began to fall. Nevertheless spirits were raised as our nature-loving wives came across a nest with three eggs almost buried in the sand.

A great variety of chalets dotted the coastline near Braystones Station and this did enable us to follow a more regular track from time to time. Wearied by the difficult surface, we decided to leave the foreshore to take advantage of an alternative route offered through Nethertown. However, after we descended past the railway station we encountered a major obstacle in the form of huge boulders strategically positioned to protect the cliff around a new looking property.

How the route could be so effectively blocked made us frustrated and angry, and we wondered how those responsible for footpaths could allow this to happen. This was the only real downside on the whole walk. The onset of heavier rain and wind made clambering across the boulders particularly perilous, after which we were further endangered by very slippery rocks, stones and seaweed. This section is not to be recommended!

With hindsight it would have been much better to have made our way to St Bees (3 miles) via the country road we spotted on the map. Perhaps we could have rejoined the beach closer to St Bees (planners and future walkers please take note). Nevertheless we managed to trudge over the uneven surface for a further couple of miles with occasional respite as we passed chalets, some of which had an amazingly permanent appearance. As St Bees came closer, with water-sports enthusiasts enjoying the swirling wind, the smooth sands provided a welcome finale to our walk. A quick photo opportunity with the help of a passing stranger and that was it, for this time at least!

Total - 40.0 miles

Some two months after walking from Millom to St Bees we set off again (13-14 October 2006) determined this time to reach Maryport. We have continued to number the days in sequence to give an indication of the overall length of time we are taking to complete the Way.

Day 5 St Bees – Lowca 8.75 miles

The route from St Bees starts with a climb to the highest point on the Way: the two Heads of Baruth. This coincides with the beginning of the Coast to Coast Walk that we had previously covered, but this time, although it was early October, we were blessed with excellent weather.

The views across the sea to the west and back to the fells on the east were clear and stunning and we appreciated the location indicators available in the old coast guard ruin. As we made our way we could appreciate the red sandstone that characterises these headlands and that has provided the stone for many of the older north-west Cumbrian churches.

Although there was a marked absence of bird life at this time of year, the RSPB Nature Reserve signs reminded us that this is a major nesting site. Approaching Whitehaven, a faded plaque recalled that this, the first section of the CCW, was opened in 1985. Then we became aware of the previous existence of coalmining along this stretch of coastline as we passed the Haig Mining Museum and an aptly named sculpture The end of an era as we descended into Whitehaven. Here the marina and promenade provided a pleasant contrast to the cliff top walking we had enjoyed earlier.

Leaving Whitehaven, we more or less followed the railway as we made our way in and out of the coastline and through Parton before climbing again quite steeply to Lowca, the former site of yet another colliery. Here we found the reclaimed spoil heaps now dotted with a new source of energy- wind turbines as we ended a very pleasant 5 hour-day’s walking.

Day 6 Lowca – Maryport 12 miles

Happily a newly signposted bridlepath on your left, after about ½ mile from the top end of Lowca, reduced the need for road walking to a bearable minimum. Thereafter the route was well-marked and largely followed an old mineral railway track. Once again the sea lay within a short distance. By the time we reached Harrington, with its rather neglected-looking harbour, we were in need of some refreshments. Avoiding the temptations of the pub, we elected to divert under the railway viaduct that straddles the town, and explore the main shopping street, at the end of which we were rewarded with takeaway coffees and cookies at the Pat-a-Cake Bakery.

After enjoying a break by the harbour, we resumed our walk along the coast. The path took us beneath the railway line that accompanied us past the sadly abandoned Corus complex (formerly British Steel) - yet another symbol of the industrial heritage of this area. Eventually we reached the out-of-town shops and business units of Workington, whereupon we turned left to make our way quite steeply back to the coastline.

The path overlooked the still-active quarry before leading us up and over The Howe and down to the harbour entrance. Once again the lack of shipping provided evidence of the decline of the traditional sources of local employment as we followed the River Derwent around the once–thriving port area. When the river turned inland we found ourselves walking for a considerable distance this time with the railway line on our right.

Newer industrial sites at Siddick and Flimby came into view behind the tall wind turbines as we walked along the edge of the stone-strewn beach. Eventually the coastal way led us into the renovated harbour area of Maryport and the end of a really varied and interesting seven hour walk.

See other walks by Peter Donaghy.

Overview of the Cumbria Western Coast.

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